One: Mustagh Ata Dispatch #1 6/21/04
Despite Northwest Airlines' best
efforts to derail the expedition, I - and more importantly, all of the gear -
managed to arrive in Beijing on 19 June - only a day late, which is not bad by
Asian standards. My three days in Beijing have been consumed with last-minute
shopping at expat grocery stores, whirlwind visits to various tourist sites,
and copious consumption of ridiculously cheap food and beer. The train ride to
Kashgar begins on the 23rd - three days of non-stop fun, fun, fun, made all
the moreso by my travelling companions - 10 duffel bags filled with various
sundry high-altitude climbing items. Until Turkestan, Ted out.
Mountain Madness, Inc.
like to welcome everyone to our 2004 Mustagh Ata expedition. At 7,566 meters
(24,816 feet) Mustagh Ata is one of the 50 highest peaks in the world. It is
part of the Pamir mountain range and is located in the far west remote region
of China’s Xinjiang province where ice meets with the desert. The barren
landscape surrounding the peak rises more than two miles above sea level. To
its west are small, scattered villages of the Kirghiz people who rely on
herding and trade for survival.
The first attempt of Mustagh Ata was in 1894 by a Swedish explorer Sven Hedin,
who tried riding a Yak to the summit while his Kirghiz guides accompanied him
on foot. Unfortunately, he and his Yak were denied the summit and gave up
around 19,500 feet. In 1947, two other explorers Shipton and Tilman attempted
the climb of Mustagh Ata, but turned around due to deep snow close to her
summit around 24,000 feet. It wasn’t until 1956 that the Soviet Union teamed
up with a Chinese Mountaineering team and was successful in reaching the
The Mountain Madness Mustagh Ata team will travel through Beijing and
rendezvous in Kashgar on June 30th. After a day of sightseeing they will drive
to the village of Subashi, enjoying outstanding views of Mustagh Ata, Kongur,
and Karakul Lake along the way. Camels will carry their loads into Base Camp.
From here they will establish three higher camps. The Expedition will make our
summit attempt from our high camp at 6,800 meters. Their summit day is planned
around July 16th. The climb is fairly straight forward and is an excellent
stepping stone for those who inspire to climb an 8,000 meter peak. Skis or
snow shoes are required to make the ascent, and a couple members plan to ski
down. For more information about our 2005 expedition to Mustagh Ata, please
Our head guide will be Ted Callahan. Ted is a well seasoned mountain guide who
brings along his witty, slightly caustic sense of humor to all his trips. Ted
has all the tales of the savvy and not so savvy traveler. To his credit are
also first descents on the wildest rivers in Africa, Asia and South America.
Ted is a professional member of the American Mountain Guides Association and
currently pursuing a Masters in Asian Studies at Stanford University. Ted is
proficient in Chinese, Russian, Kazak, Nepali, Spanish and Farsi.
Other team members are;
Denny Bohannon from Arlington, Washington. Denny is a retired lineman who got
his training on a MM Glacier Mountaineering Course in the Cascades. In
addition Denny has climbed quite a few North American peaks. He has visited
Nepal and Europe for frequent back packing trips and is an avid skier.
James Wiesmueller from Round Hill, Virginia. Jim has climbed on Denali and
Aconcagua and is currently on the MM Sajama expedition. He trains by hiking
with a heavy pack 2-3 times per week. Among his notable trips with MM is a
coveted ascent of Ecuador’s Antisana.
Robert Oglesby from Huntsville Alabama. Bob is a Research Scientist who got
his training on MM Ecuador Mountaineering Course. He's climbed in the Sierras
and Kilimanjaro. Bob trains by carrying a heavy pack throughout the week and
includes weight training at his local gym.
Jon David Stewart from Burlington, North Carolina. JD is superman. In the day
he is a student and in the afternoon an ironman. His insane training schedule
consists of biking 250 -300 miles per week, 80-100 lbs. pack and running. JD
summited Aconcagua in 2002 with Mountain Madness.
We wish our team a successful and safe expedition!
Mountain Madness, Inc.
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.