4 Members of the
Mt Everest Expedition 2004 lead by
2 Nepalese Sherpas has summited
Everest on May 16th
Name of Summiteers
3. Mr. Martin Boileau (38
yrs), Eye Surgion, Esterel, QC, Jot Ico, Canada.
1. Mr. Namgya Sherpa
(32 yrs), Lelep – 8, Taplejung, Nepal.
5. Mr. Alejandro Ochoa (27
yrs), Sport Manager, Country Club, Mexico.
6. Mr. Kami Chhiri Lama (36
yrs), Bhakanje – 5, Solukhumbu, Nepal.
Nine members International
Everest Expedition Spring 2004 was permitted to climb 8848 Meter high Mt.
Everest from South East Ridge for the period of seventy-five days from 23rd
This Expedition team is
organized by Arun Treks & Expedition P. Ltd., Kathmandu, Nepal.
The Window is
and 12,000 meters of altitude, there is a wind current called Jet Stream
(where airplanes fly). On the summits of the mountains of eight thousand
meters (Everest), this wind is part of the scenery and can blow with great
force with speeds of up to 300 Km/h. If a human being stands on the summit
with those winds, he or she would fly like a kite!
winds won't let you advance and will give you cold and fatigue. All the
expeditions look how to take advantage of the moment when the Jet Stream goes
away from the mountain for a period of two to three days, when there is a more
stable weather and when there is a real opportunity to attack the summit.
phenomena have to happen for the wind to recede from one day to another?
the tropical heat of Bengal Bay produces a great mass of humid air, the famous
Monsoon. This air saturated with water is dragged towards the Himalayas, hits
against the mountains, goes up and pushes the Jet Stream to the North and the
strong winds recede. This is what is called a WINDOW of good weather because
the winds diminish to less that 40 Km/h and nature gives the climbers an
opportunity to reach their goal.
mountain creates its own micro-weather and it is impossible to forecast
with accuracy since there is no weather station. However, at Base Camp weather
forecasts from four different sources are analyzed, they are compared and
conclusions are made to take decisions as a team.
the good weather window is predicted for the days of May 15, 16 and 17. The
Mexicans have made plans to reach the summit on May 16 before noon. That day
was chosen to have a margin of good weather before and after the summit. That
day the force of the wind won't exceed 20 Km/h and temperatures will be around
-20º Celsius in average.
On May 12, the
Mexicans left Base Camp with the highest goal in the world, to conquer the
8,850 meters of the Sagarmatha Goddess. Each one expressed his happiness in
his own way, with fear and illusion combined with incertitude. Andrés was
thoughtful, concentrated, with his experience he knows that this is a matter
of patience and luck. Alejandro was thoughtful, sensitive, selfish, enjoying
the beginning. Luís has a nervous laughter, he didn't stop telling jokes and
anecdotes to clear his mind.
mountain each climber is alone with his body and soul, the three Mexicans are
not tied, however they are a team and among them moral support is important.
For better safety, they organized in couples. Each climber is going with a
Sherpa and they will take care of each other. Andrés and Alejandro are going
to try to go without oxygen, but the Sherpas carry an oxygen bottle in case of
emergency. Luís is carrying his four bottles of oxygen during the whole
journey from Camp 4.
The moment has
arrived to give ourselves to the mountain with devotion and courage, respect
My head is
flooded with a typhoon of lies, ideas, truths and illusions. I repeat to
myself once and again the sequence of activities for that day and reaffirm to
myself shyly that this can be done, that somehow that absence of miraculous
coincidences will happen in your day.
certain is that one goes with greatest fears than ever, hoping that we have
that supernatural strength that we still don't know and we'd probably have.
We have to reach as high as possible and come back to ourselves, that is what
we hope... Alejandro Ochoa
Four days to
fight against our bodies and minds, to search into our souls the internal fire
that has brought us here. - Andrés Delgado
I'd like to be
up there by my own means, but I would also like that people know that if you
try hard this can be done. I never had sports education or the means to
climb, it has been hard to get the economical support, but I am fighting here
for my dream. I came without money for this trip, now a sponsor believed in
me and that motivates me. - Luís Espinoza
In Mexico it
is 11 hours less than in Nepal
Wednesday, May 12
5:30 AM Base Camp - Camp 2
(6 hrs. Aprox)
Night in Camp 2
Thursday, May 13
Day of rest -
acclimatization in Camp 2
Night in Camp
Friday, May 14
8:00 AM Camp 2
- Camp 3 (7 hrs. Aprox)
Night in Camp
Saturday, May 15
6:00 AM Camp 3 - Camp 4 (8
2:00 PM - 8:00
PM Try to rest and sleep at Camp 4
8:00 PM -
DEPARTURE FOR THE SUMMIT
Sunday, May 16
ARRIVAL TO THE
SUMMIT, by the morning
Translated from Spanish by